WEBVTT 00:00:00.700 --> 00:00:03.800 This puree will eventually become vegan leather. 00:00:04.900 --> 00:00:07.400 It's made from thousands of mangoes that would otherwise 00:00:07.400 --> 00:00:08.300 be thrown away. 00:00:09.800 --> 00:00:14.100 Now, this waste can be used to make wallets Handbags and shoes, 00:00:14.100 --> 00:00:17.500 but can't compete with a massive leather industry. 00:00:17.500 --> 00:00:21.300 We visited the headquarters of fruit leather in the Netherlands 00:00:21.300 --> 00:00:22.100 to find out. 00:00:25.000 --> 00:00:28.700 Fruit leather, collects around 1500 mangoes, each week from 00:00:28.700 --> 00:00:29.600 a Dutch importer. 00:00:31.300 --> 00:00:36.200 Quality control requires that we cooked among those who don't 00:00:36.200 --> 00:00:36.700 sell them anymore. 00:00:36.700 --> 00:00:40.700 So I wanted to have an outlet for that instead of just throwing 00:00:40.700 --> 00:00:43.800 it away like trash win-win. 00:00:43.800 --> 00:00:48.700 As we received the way stuff from them for free and they don't 00:00:48.700 --> 00:00:50.800 have to pay any more because Rachel stayer. 00:00:50.800 --> 00:00:51.200 Mangle voice 00:00:52.400 --> 00:00:53.400 Back at their Studio. 00:00:53.400 --> 00:00:56.700 Co-founders, Hugo, and Coon start making the leather. 00:00:57.900 --> 00:01:02.500 First machine D, Stones, the mangoes, and then crushes the fruit 00:01:02.500 --> 00:01:03.300 into a pulp. 00:01:04.500 --> 00:01:07.800 The mixture pumps through tube into a large bat. 00:01:10.100 --> 00:01:12.800 Next kygo, mix has several additives. That 00:01:12.800 --> 00:01:15.900 will turn the mango pulp into a leather like material 00:01:15.900 --> 00:01:22.400 to add a little bit more additives. 00:01:23.500 --> 00:01:24.500 Perfect. Yo. 00:01:25.700 --> 00:01:27.900 But it looks right Hugo pores. 00:01:27.900 --> 00:01:29.800 The mixture onto metal baking trays. 00:01:31.100 --> 00:01:33.400 Of course, it out to create an even sickness. 00:01:37.500 --> 00:01:42.200 Then the trees go in at the hydrator overnight before we dry, 00:01:42.200 --> 00:01:46.700 it always has this life cram color but after we dry, 00:01:46.700 --> 00:01:50.800 it depends to look very different based on the type of mango 00:01:50.800 --> 00:01:51.400 that we use. 00:01:51.400 --> 00:01:56.200 So ranson's a Palmer mango will give a more brownish ethereal. 00:01:56.200 --> 00:02:02.100 Keith mango will give a more like materials to do with leather 00:02:02.100 --> 00:02:04.100 finishing facility, to be coated. 00:02:04.100 --> 00:02:07.900 In a protective glaze Rico and his family have been in the leather 00:02:07.900 --> 00:02:12.400 business since 1952, but this is the first time they process 00:02:12.400 --> 00:02:16.200 vegan leather. We use the same process but it's different 00:02:16.200 --> 00:02:22.400 material. So it responds differently to a hey or to the finishing 00:02:22.400 --> 00:02:23.300 product we use. 00:02:24.300 --> 00:02:27.100 First, he measures the thickness of each sheet. 00:02:28.700 --> 00:02:31.300 Then they mix resins to make the coating. 00:02:32.400 --> 00:02:36.400 And it makes a little film on top of that she ain't so it 00:02:36.400 --> 00:02:38.900 will be protected from the elements. 00:02:41.900 --> 00:02:45.700 A machine press has a thin layer of protective coating on to the 00:02:45.700 --> 00:02:48.000 letter. When did she fall through? 00:02:48.000 --> 00:02:53.000 They go into it and that will roll into an oven 00:02:54.500 --> 00:02:58.200 The 100 degrees Celsius heat helps the coating dry. 00:02:59.400 --> 00:03:02.200 Then the sheet, hangs on racks to cool and dry. 00:03:02.200 --> 00:03:07.000 Completely each one undergoes this process multiple times to make 00:03:07.000 --> 00:03:07.500 it more durable. 00:03:09.000 --> 00:03:12.900 Next, another machine applies heat and pressure to combine 00:03:12.900 --> 00:03:14.000 the layers of coding. 00:03:15.000 --> 00:03:17.000 The final step is the design. 00:03:18.600 --> 00:03:22.100 This embossing machine can make the leather look and feel like 00:03:22.100 --> 00:03:22.900 animal skin. 00:03:24.600 --> 00:03:28.400 Then the leather is sold two designers around the world. 00:03:29.900 --> 00:03:32.800 Hugo and Coon first came up with the idea for fruit, 00:03:32.800 --> 00:03:36.400 leather, back in 2015, and something. 00:03:36.400 --> 00:03:39.400 Valueless into something that's at that has fell, 00:03:39.400 --> 00:03:43.400 you eventually with a lot of experimenting we came up with the 00:03:43.400 --> 00:03:44.400 material that we have today. 00:03:45.500 --> 00:03:47.900 A big part of this process was deciding, 00:03:47.900 --> 00:03:49.000 which fruit to use. 00:03:49.000 --> 00:03:53.200 When we first started, we didn't know that a certain fruit 00:03:53.200 --> 00:03:56.300 might lead to better material, actually, in such a way that 00:03:56.300 --> 00:03:57.800 we even tried processing. 00:03:57.800 --> 00:04:00.300 Watermelons turns out. 00:04:00.300 --> 00:04:01.700 There's not a lot of fibers inside. 00:04:01.700 --> 00:04:06.600 Watermelons made me water because the fruit was easy to work 00:04:06.600 --> 00:04:10.400 with mango Holland. 00:04:10.400 --> 00:04:14.400 Actually Imports more than half of the mangoes in Europe or imported 00:04:14.400 --> 00:04:15.800 or treated by the Netherlands. 00:04:16.500 --> 00:04:19.000 In around 12%, of food in the Netherlands, 00:04:19.000 --> 00:04:24.300 is wasted resource to make our material. 00:04:24.300 --> 00:04:26.700 That is why I decided to stick with the mango. 00:04:26.700 --> 00:04:37.000 Also want to reduce emissions another way that comes from the 00:04:37.000 --> 00:04:40.800 tanning process. The chemicals used to tan leather can be toxic 00:04:40.800 --> 00:04:42.600 to both humans and the environment. 00:04:44.300 --> 00:04:47.600 There's also the methane emissions that come from raising 00:04:47.600 --> 00:04:50.900 cattle. If we reduce the number of cows, 00:04:50.900 --> 00:04:55.500 then we also reduce the amount of greenhouse gases that some 00:04:55.500 --> 00:04:57.200 experts say, it's not that simple. 00:04:57.200 --> 00:05:00.600 Weather is not primarily, what's driving the cattle industry. 00:05:00.600 --> 00:05:03.600 And I think that there is a pretty compelling argument to be made 00:05:03.600 --> 00:05:06.800 that as long as beef production is still continuing, 00:05:06.800 --> 00:05:09.500 that we should make use of these hides. 00:05:10.600 --> 00:05:12.900 Vegan leather also comes with its own challenges, 00:05:12.900 --> 00:05:18.000 although some of it is made from mushrooms or pineapples. 00:05:19.200 --> 00:05:20.900 Most is made from plastic. 00:05:22.900 --> 00:05:25.500 And it still leaves a large carbon footprint. 00:05:25.500 --> 00:05:28.800 People started realizing that sort of urethane letter, 00:05:28.800 --> 00:05:32.700 which is made from oil is not the solution in 2020. 00:05:32.700 --> 00:05:36.000 The synthetic leather Market was valued at over thirty billion 00:05:36.000 --> 00:05:40.500 dollars and one study predicts, it will grow to over 40 billion 00:05:40.500 --> 00:05:41.700 in the next 6 years. 00:05:41.700 --> 00:05:45.500 But that's still only a fraction of the leather industry, 00:05:45.500 --> 00:05:50.900 which was valued at nearly four hundred billion dollars 13 times 00:05:50.900 --> 00:05:52.500 more than its synthetic counterpart. 00:05:53.500 --> 00:05:58.600 We do need these new alternative materials that have hit the 00:05:58.600 --> 00:06:02.100 different environmental profile and hopefully a smaller carbon 00:06:02.100 --> 00:06:05.100 footprint. But for small companies, like, fruit leather, 00:06:05.100 --> 00:06:06.600 it's hard to compete. 00:06:06.600 --> 00:06:10.600 Right now, fruit leather is only able to produce 80 square, 00:06:10.600 --> 00:06:11.900 meters of leather per month. 00:06:11.900 --> 00:06:14.900 That's about two hundred, fifty pairs of shoes. 00:06:16.600 --> 00:06:20.200 The final product cost around $22 per square foot. 00:06:21.500 --> 00:06:25.300 In the small size of each sheet means the company can only make 00:06:25.300 --> 00:06:33.300 certain products so that we can also increase our production 00:06:33.300 --> 00:06:38.400 capacity will also expand the range of products that the material 00:06:38.400 --> 00:06:46.100 can be applied to the last, like, 00:06:46.100 --> 00:06:48.800 10 years. This is something I wouldn't be able to withstand 00:06:48.800 --> 00:06:52.600 now but they are still working to make the product more durable 00:06:52.600 --> 00:06:56.300 and Hugo and Coon that our goal isn't to replace cow leather 00:06:56.300 --> 00:07:00.300 all together. This process has been completely thawed out and 00:07:00.300 --> 00:07:04.700 we started in 2015 so we are not going to suddenly replace 00:07:04.700 --> 00:07:06.600 a product that has been around for thousands of years. 00:07:08.100 --> 00:07:11.800 Still. They are aiming to make leather production easier on the 00:07:11.800 --> 00:07:14.300 environment. One mango at a time.